The mandarin jacket, along with the tang jacket and qipao-inspired silhouettes, has returned to the fashion mainstream this season, prompting a wider conversation about where inspiration ends and appropriation begins. As Western labels reintroduce upright collars, frog fastenings and structured tailoring rooted in Chinese dress, five industry voices have weighed in on how the trend should be handled and who should benefit from it.
Designer Poppy Wang framed the central question, arguing that the difference between appropriation and appreciation is understanding the garment’s roots. Alongside her, PR manager Amy Billington-Li, fashion editor and Ouch Studios founder April Ru Wan, culture content creator Jade Rose and creative director Joey Yip described a tension between mass-market reproductions and thoughtful reinterpretation by designers connected to the culture.
Much of the concern centres on fast fashion. The contributors cautioned that high-volume brands often produce these pieces without context or credit, flattening centuries of meaning into a disposable seasonal look. They contrasted that approach with contemporary labels such as Samuel Gui Yang, Xu Zhi and Yirantian, whose work reinterprets traditional forms while supporting Asian design talent. A collaboration between Adidas and Shanghai was cited as an example of a more considered partnership.
The discussion also revisited past controversies, including John Galliano’s earlier qipao-referencing designs, as a reminder of how easily the garment’s significance can be overlooked. Several contributors pointed to a newer phenomenon some describe as Chinamaxxing, in which Chinese culture is treated as a passing aesthetic rather than a living heritage. That framing feels especially fraught, they noted, given the racism Asian communities have historically faced.
The consensus was less about banning the trend than about approaching it with care. Shoppers were encouraged to research a garment’s history, prioritise authentic makers over cheap imitations and recognise the people behind the designs. Appreciation, the experts suggested, begins with knowledge, respect and credit rather than a quick purchase driven only by a fleeting seasonal look.
